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Old 11/26/2013, 05:08 PM   #51
hugorsf
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Sorry for reborn this topic but i have the same problem. Do you solve the color problem?

Quote:
.I could have a toxin thats coming through the ro/di water perhaps a heavy metal in abnormal quantities...copper, lead or the like
I think my problem could be this too...


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Old 11/26/2013, 06:57 PM   #52
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Check your phosphates. You can kill corals a lot faster by having phosphates a little to low than having phosphates way to high. Here's an interesting qoute by Chalres Delbeek "When I see the colors of some of these low nutrient tanks, I can't help but be reminded of bleached corals reefs . . . Our crystal clear aquaria do not come close to the nutrient loads that swirl around natural reefs." For more reading:

Phosphate uptake in corals http://jeb.biologists.org/content/214/16/2749.full
Ammonium uptake: http://www.ingentaconnect.com/conten...00004/art00011
Nitrate uptake: http://www.aslo.org/lo/toc/vol_48/issue_6/2266.html
Fish as major carbonate producers http://www.pnas.org/content/108/10/3865
Effects of Anemone fish on anemones: http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/1...9#.UpS4pyeJ7Mo


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Old 12/24/2013, 08:57 PM   #53
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I had the same condition in my tank for a very long time. Phosphate and nitrate were zero and water chemistry was spot on. I couldn't grow chaeto.

My solution was to implement an auto feeder programmed to dose flakes and Cyclopseeze twice per day. I've been feeding since September, and growth and color have improved in my SPS. My observations tell me that I need to be in the range of 2-4 ppb for growth and color.


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Old 12/25/2013, 06:42 AM   #54
Osteoclast
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Timfish

I enjoyed the scientific papers you linked above. Thank you for providing these data. The coral culture experiments were especially interesting in the J Exp Biol paper. Hard data as you have provided adds to theory and hypotheses often supporting or refuting. It is appreciated by many readers when a hobbiest goes out of his/her way to provide supporting data for his arguments-thanks again.


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Old 01/18/2018, 10:46 AM   #55
jojojo16
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Sick Coral? Please help :(

This guy here is very droopy and not pointing up the last couple days. Is that normal? It was opening up every day until 10 days ago. My water quality is perfect




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Old 01/18/2018, 10:50 AM   #56
jojojo16
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Sick coral? Please help :(

This guy here is very droopy and not pointing up the last couple days. Is that normal? It was opening up every day until 10 days ago. My water quality is perfect

https://albumizr.com/a/mgSN


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Old 02/16/2018, 10:03 PM   #57
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its unfortunate that there was no resolution to this. The OP might as well be writing my story. Ive been having the exact same problems from over 2 years now. Poor corralling growth, pale and diminishing corals, etc.


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Current Tank Info: 200 Gal custom tank with dual corner overflows, 80 gal custom sump/refugium, Neptune Apex controller, Dual Lumenmax Elite reflectors with 250 Radiums, SWC 160 Cone Skimmer, 2x Jebao WP-25....and some other stuff.
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Old 02/18/2018, 01:03 PM   #58
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I think somewhere along the way ULNS got a bad rep, but I don't necessarily think they're bad, just often not implemented well. The idea behind it is not low nutrient from low feeding but from massive nutrient export. This takes years and a very mature reef to pull off successfully. In your case I would likely start dosing nitrites and reduce the phosphate export until they are at least measurable.

This is my tank before I moved. ULNS. No measurable nitrates or phosphates and I fed this tank like this 2-3 times a day, essentially a small flat of hikari mysis per day, nori, and 5-7 cubes of frozen. Best watched 1080p and fullscreen.



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