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Old 02/01/2018, 09:22 AM   #26
d0ughb0y
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have you tested with a new or another test kit?
if not, you can verify your current tester by testing rodi water and the reading should be 0. this is just to make sure your nitrate test is valid.


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Old 02/01/2018, 11:24 AM   #27
reefgeezer
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At this point I see no point in recommending a sump..
A sump just allows you to increase water volume and give you a place to put your equipment out of sight.. Other than that it will not "solve" this problem at all.. Certainly not in a way that you can't solve without out..
Good point. My though was that if the OP felt the need, it would allow for a better skimmer. IMO, even high quality HOB skimmers are somewhat limited in capacity but are way better than nothing. A sump & higher capacity skimmer could be a later upgrade though and shouldn't delay what you prescribed.


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Old 02/01/2018, 01:05 PM   #28
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The sump will have to wait for now. Today I ordered reef octopus 1000 HOB skimmer. I am going to change out 40 gallons of water as well. The nitrate test seems to be correct. I have checked it against my LFS with the same results. Even took my kit in to compare to theirs with the same results. They even tested my water with my test kit, just to make sure I wasn't having a brain fart when testing, same results. The problem I see at the moment is I am testing so high that I don't know if anything is making a difference. Is there a test that goes higher than the API kit? At least if I see some change, whether good or bad, at least I know I am doing something right or wrong.

Thank you everyone for the great information. I will continue updating with info as I progress, hopefully.


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Old 02/01/2018, 01:24 PM   #29
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as someone already suggested, you can dilute your water 2.5ml + 2.5ml rodi, then double the test reading. not sure if this will work, as I have not tried it. dilution works for titration type tests.


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Old 02/01/2018, 03:02 PM   #30
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The problem I see at the moment is I am testing so high that I don't know if anything is making a difference. Is there a test that goes higher than the API kit? .
High is high.. No point in knowing a real(ish) number..
Do what I said a few posts back... Do it.. No.. seriously.. Do it.. Do it ...Do it..

Large water changes will be your friend for now..


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Old 02/01/2018, 03:19 PM   #31
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I think he wants to know if after the water change if there is improvement.
if before water change is off the chart, and after water change is still off the chart, there is no way to tell if it made a difference.


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Old 02/01/2018, 03:21 PM   #32
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Okay, a lot of posts here.

I would be careful about shutting off the Fluval suddenly. It might be doing a lot of the filtration, and removing it might cause an ammonia spike. I might taper off the amount of media slowly, and then use it for filtration or to run activated carbon.

Some large changes would reduce the nitrate level, but if the animals are all okay, I would keep to a reasonable water change schedule, maybe 10-20% twice a month. If there's an underlying cause for the nitrate level (which there certainly is), the reading can bounce back up very rapidly after water changes. Also, large water changes sometimes cause problems.

Cutting back on the feeding probably is appropriate. I agree that adding a protein skimmer would be a good idea. I assume that the Eheim unit is just a water surface skimmer? That's very different. More live rock would help, too, as I stated.

How much food is going into the tank per day? I'd try diluting a cup of the tank water with a 2 cups of fresh saltwater, and check the nitrate in the result. That might give some idea of how much nitrate is in the system.

Nitrate isn't particularly toxic, so there's no need for rush solutions. I'd be careful with the tank.


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Old 02/01/2018, 07:52 PM   #33
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I vote for the sulfur denitrator, its simple to build for about $100, but you will need a return pump and it works alot better with the sump... I agree with everyone, you need a skimmer too. I run a skimmer, a HUGE ball of ceato, and a sulfur denitrator. I used to carbon dose with vodka but have stopped that completely in favor of the sulfur... Personally my tank was up over 50 ppm nitrates when I installed it, and over time its dropped me down to below 4ppm where it now remains rather constant.

Here is a photo of the first one I made. A simple search should fine you many designs.
http://josephniemiec.com/wp-content/...prototype1.jpg

PS - Just be aware that if you go the denitrator route it can take a couple of weeks for the bacteria to grow that will perform the deniration.This will also consume alkalinity from your tank, but not calcium.


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Old 02/01/2018, 08:24 PM   #34
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Well my water change is on hold until tomorrow. It appears everyone buys all the water from all the LFS around me. Which I need to pullnthe trigger on getting my own unit. There are so many to chose from and they all seem to claim and do the same thing. So for some reason I have my mind set on this SpectraPure unit. This probably isn't the best place to ask, so I'll post the question in another forum, but anyone have an opinion on this or any other unit.

https://www.amazon.com/SpectraPure-M...m+for+aquarium


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Old 02/01/2018, 09:25 PM   #35
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That unit should be very nice. You can get a unit that will deliver similar water quality for less, at the price of more water consumption, and like more DI resin. The Silica Buster cartridge might or might not be needed in your area. Personally, I think it'd be a reasonable choice, but California is shorter on water than many other places.


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Old 02/02/2018, 08:28 AM   #36
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Well my water change is on hold until tomorrow. It appears everyone buys all the water from all the LFS around me. Which I need to pullnthe trigger on getting my own unit. There are so many to chose from and they all seem to claim and do the same thing. So for some reason I have my mind set on this SpectraPure unit. This probably isn't the best place to ask, so I'll post the question in another forum, but anyone have an opinion on this or any other unit.

https://www.amazon.com/SpectraPure-M...m+for+aquarium
Money well spent.


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Old 02/02/2018, 06:21 PM   #37
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I'm in the same boat as you, green hair algae removal has become a weekly chore and i was about to nuke my rock and start from scratch but I've picked up a RODI system, two reactors which are fairly cheap the phosban ones and run gfo in one and carbon in the other and then a bio pellet reactor. I found everything used for under 350 and finally have my levels down. No easy solution except for spending more money haha like everything in the reef game. Time and money. I also agree with everyone else here get a proper skimmer running and imo ditch the 406

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Old 02/03/2018, 06:41 AM   #38
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Carbon V/S


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Old 02/03/2018, 06:43 AM   #39
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I'm in the same boat as you, green hair algae removal has become a weekly chore and i was about to nuke my rock and start from scratch but I've picked up a RODI system, two reactors which are fairly cheap the phosban ones and run gfo in one and carbon in the other and then a bio pellet reactor. I found everything used for under 350 and finally have my levels down. No easy solution except for spending more money haha like everything in the reef game. Time and money. I also agree with everyone else here get a proper skimmer running and imo ditch the 406

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Probably your phos is 0.. thus unable to bring down no3

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Old 02/05/2018, 12:44 AM   #40
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Sorry it has been a few days. Kids and all. So on Friday I attempted to do a 50 gallon water change. That didn't happen. I did a massive vacuuming , which I'm sure I'm pulling more water than waste due to my acclamation to everything, and pulled out 25 gallons of water. That put me below the top of my live rock and was exposing some corals. So I called it good and refilled the tank with 25 gallons of newly mixed water. I probably could have fit another 5 gallons but figured it was time for bed. So I ended my water change with buffering the Mg and called it a night. I should have dosed phosphate Rx but figured everything hard been stressed out enough, so it can wait until tomorrow.

Now rewind one day. I went to the LFS and had them run a test on my water on Thursday. This is usually when i get my RO, but also an excuse for me to check out the new live stock. I never walk out empty handed. Whether it is a new addition to the tank or some fancy new dew dad. The conversation and time spent there is always top notch. So here are my stats from the last 2 tests.

1-27-18
Alk 10
PO4 .5
No3 immeasurable on API
Mg 1380
Ca 490

2-1-18 (before water change)
Alk 9.6
PO4 .75
No3 immeasurable on API but took longer to go to red and not as deep red as before
Mg 1320
Ca 455


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Old 02/05/2018, 06:37 PM   #41
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Those numbers are fine for fish. The alkalinity and nitrate might be high enough to cause problems for some corals, but that's not completely clear. I would wait for the Reef Octopus to show up and then give it some time to improve the situation. You might need to do a number of water changes or use some other approach to reduce the phosphate and nitrate levels, because the skimmer can't remove those, although it might allow the other filtration to catch up.

If any animals started having problems, some 15-20% water changes might help. I'd be careful about larger changes. Exposing live rock to air can cause die-off and ammonia spikes.


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Old 02/05/2018, 06:55 PM   #42
Misticl
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The protein skimmer arrived today. It is installed and running. Water is perfectly clear. I was expecting some yellow or brown i guess , but nothing other than clear water and bubbles.


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Old 02/05/2018, 07:13 PM   #43
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Hmm, it might take some time to get going, or there might be very little organic debris in the water at this point. Hopefully, it can start intercepting some organics before they decay into nitrate and phosphate.


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Old 02/05/2018, 08:16 PM   #44
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What are you thoughts on some nopox dosing now that i have the skimmer up? Is there a cycle time for a skimmer?


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Old 02/05/2018, 09:31 PM   #45
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The issue with new skimmers is the possible presence of mold release agents or something similar on the surface, so it's not actually a cycle time, and it might not happen at all. It's been too long since I bought a new skimmer for me to remember how mine behaved, but I'd give it a bit before expecting much.

You could start the carbon dosing now, but I'd follow a conservative dosing schedule, like the ones in the vodka and vinegar articles, and watch for signs of bacterial slimes or the like.


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Old 02/06/2018, 06:41 AM   #46
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After 10 hours of the skimmer running over night, the cup was half full and the water was a bit yellow. I will test nitrates in a bit to see of there has been any change yet without dosing.


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Old 02/06/2018, 08:44 AM   #47
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A skimmer won't change nitrate levels that quickly. In fact, it won't actually change levels at all. It is there to remove organics before they add to nitrate and phosphate levels. If your nitrates are actually undetectable but you have high phosphate I'd focus on the phosphate. Need to get those two in a balance for the natural processes to work best.


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