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Old 01/21/2018, 04:44 PM   #176
Wally.B
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rakie View Post
Looking great, keep it up! I'm surprised it's not wet yet
Patience, patience Rakie.
You know I'd love to rush, but not this time. This for next 15 years.
But if you want Water. See next post.


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Old 01/21/2018, 04:50 PM   #177
Wally.B
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Tank With Water (Backing / Reflection ) Analysis

When I designed the sump room last time, there was a reason for the back wall blue. (It allow me to have blue tank backing without painting or putting a backing on).

But with Tank HIGHER, and New SIDE VIEW, things need to be changed.

So I filled tank with some water to analyze reflections and view thru tank.

FOR THE FRONT VIEW (The Drywall STUD and Hollow Cavity will be exposed)

*SIMPLE FIX* (Put a cover on the DRYWALL Cavity and paint is a slight brighter blue for Blending)



For SIDE VIEW there is a reflection off LEFT TANK Glass. Of course that side will also have Overflow and possibly black film.

* A Small Fix will be to extend the BLUE WALL a bit **



TOP of Tank will be higher (so that White Strip for OLD Tank setup will have to be raised, or painted blue)

It will never be perfect as a TANK Backing (but worked great for old Tank if your never looked really close)


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Old 01/21/2018, 07:12 PM   #178
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Project GENESIS (Phase 1) SUMP-ROOM Un-build/Deconstruct (Complete)

Today worked on completing the Sump Room Gutting AND inside Cut Outs, PLUS (of OLD Water Damaged Bottom Drywall)

Before and After shows progress over Last Month.



Both Tanks and Both Sumps are still fully Running (That is a miracle job in itself)

I just have to work on Bottom Walls (Heal and Seal) and then THE BUILD CAN START (When Tank Arrives)


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Old 01/21/2018, 08:14 PM   #179
Wally.B
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LIGHTING DECISION (For Next Year +) 6 x T5 (39W) + with LED [[ No 250W MH ]]

This has been a difficult decision and I've been pondering for a long time.

I have to move forward on Lighting as Part of the Electrical Build.

I have decided for many reasons to Start the New Tank on T5's and (Some kind of DIY Led for Actinic/POP)

** YES, I HATE Bulb Replacement **, but Benefits outweigh Downside.

I am about to order 3x DIY (T5 Kits) with HEP Ballasts ( Exact Same Ballast as in ATI Fixture)



I like the Micro-4 Reflectors since I have both to COMPARE.
Both are clip-on , but the Micro-T has better Multi Angle Reflector which you can tell directs light better (when looking into it).



To not confuse anyone. Above Photo and Below Photo (the Reflectors are switched LEFT / RIGHT)



It a bit wider too.

The decision for T5 is the following:

-> Short Term SMALLER Investment on Ballast/Reflectors
-> Can STOP buying T5 bulbs if I decide for something else
-> Proven ATI Blue Plus Bulb for SPS Coloration & Growth
-> Less Intensity compare to my 250W MH (Less Power consumption)
-> No shimmer, Even Light Distribution compared to ANY LED option.
-> REALLY WANT THIS NEXT TANK to have Best Chance to do GOOD.

I'll add some kind of LED (from my DIY parts) for off peak lighting.
Maybe even the Extra Kessil I have coming.

My MOVE TO LED is just postponed (let the technology evolve).



Last edited by Wally.B; 01/21/2018 at 09:57 PM.
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Old Yesterday, 11:14 AM   #180
Wally.B
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T5 (54W-48"/46 or 39W-36"/32) Next Difficult Decision

I kind of stuck on 54W or 39W T5 Decision. (Price is almost the same).

-> Part of the reason is my Tank is in Wall and Flush (DRYwall overlaps 1/2" One Side)
-> Part of the reason is my Euro Top Trim

As shown below I have a few options.



-> If I go 54W I will get great lighting across the whole tank width (45" if you subtract the 1/2" glass on either side), but bulbs are 46" of light area.
-----> Part of bulb will overhang over One Side of tank where External Overflow is (but all this is behind wall)
-----> Also light will pass thru and reflect off of Glass Top Euro Trim

-> If I go 39W or 32" bulb length that means (if all bulbs centered) 6.5" on either side of tank will get less lighting.

----> I could do what I did in my Kitchen 48' Tank (Stagger the shorter bulbs)


It two factors for this decision :
----> Lighting for Corals
----> Look of tank

I think I need to hold off and wait for tank to Arrive (Try the 39W bulbs and ballast I have over Frag Tank)


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Old Yesterday, 12:57 PM   #181
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I think it’s a no brainer.. 54w for sure, if it fits..
Also, imo, the original t5 decision is the absolute best option for you.
No guess work, no worries about the intensity or spectrum. You’ll never have to tweak or have doubts about light.
The 54w will give you full coverage with no drops in intensity anywhere.


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Current Tank Info: 53x32.5x26 190g dt 60g of sumps 3 tank-100 gal frag system 4x AI prime 6xt5 3x150w mh. 4x maxspect gyre. Skimz Dual internal sicce pump skimmer Deltec PF601s ca rx+Kalk stirrer
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Old Yesterday, 01:27 PM   #182
Wally.B
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reefmutt View Post
I think itís a no brainer.. 54w for sure, if it fits..
Also, imo, the original t5 decision is the absolute best option for you.
No guess work, no worries about the intensity or spectrum. Youíll never have to tweak or have doubts about light.
The 54w will give you full coverage with no drops in intensity anywhere.
I was thinking the same think since it like $1 a bulb more for 54W.
Behind wall who cares how things look.

I'll find way to make 54W fit, even if I have to Black-Electrical Tape the FAR END of the bulbs.

The EuroBrace probably let's most light thru.

Matt, is that how you have your tank? T5's all the way to the ends?
But I did do a test too see how Lights bounce off side wall.



Interesting what water does.
That was fresh water, so Salt water is thicker for even more.


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Old Yesterday, 03:33 PM   #183
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54W (46" Bulb) Adjustments ( FOR Receded In-Wall TANK FIT )

Good thing I'm planning ahead on T5 Lighting.



Everything is possible....

Wouldn't want to have things finished to be making HACK adjustments at last minute.

Wonder what the typical Height (T5's) about Tank is? 11"?
I should make space for 12-14" to be safe.


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Old Yesterday, 07:31 PM   #184
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Yes, 12-14 inches would be a good idea. You’ll have a lot of good quality light and may need to raise or lower the fixture sometimes.
My tank is 53 inches long and I use 54w bulbs so they don’t extend to the edges.. but close..


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Current Tank Info: 53x32.5x26 190g dt 60g of sumps 3 tank-100 gal frag system 4x AI prime 6xt5 3x150w mh. 4x maxspect gyre. Skimz Dual internal sicce pump skimmer Deltec PF601s ca rx+Kalk stirrer
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Old Yesterday, 07:49 PM   #185
Wally.B
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Originally Posted by reefmutt View Post
Yes, 12-14 inches would be a good idea. You’ll have a lot of good quality light and may need to raise or lower the fixture sometimes.
My tank is 53 inches long and I use 54w bulbs so they don’t extend to the edges.. but close..
Huh?? If Tank is 46" and your is 53 that's 7 " more. 3.5" GAP more each side.
That is close but not to the edge.

But.....I made adjustment for 54W Bulb to fit. 1" will hang over other side (Which is small. Black Electrical Tape could cover 1" if need)

I'll never COMPLAIN ABOVE COVERAGE EVER



For now 10" VERTICLE pocket but later I can increase to 12" or more.

I am learning to under cut than over cut. Can always cut more, but putting back is patching work.


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Old Yesterday, 08:07 PM   #186
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TANK Startup (FOLR) Have QT Tanks (old Tank, 10Gals, Frag Tank )

So the plan for the Tank start up will be FOLR.

Matt, after seeing your video, I love the Fish look activity in your tank.

And my Kitchen Tank is Fish Devoid (3 Cromis, Hawkfish, and Lawnmover Blenny)

I'll introduce fish going through proper QT (Learned that lesson with Powder Brown)

This is what tank will start off with (coming from old tank)



What I'll get well have to see.....

But I saw a beautiful specimen in at CoralShop when I was picking up the Orphek. Instantly fell in Love. (Never saw one before, or recently)



A Purple Tang.

I know they are aggressive, and sensitive to disease.

But I'll have opportunity to treat with No Corals as Tank Stabilizes.

Nothing is for sure, just thinking.


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Old Yesterday, 08:13 PM   #187
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A wrasse or two?


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Old Yesterday, 08:24 PM   #188
Wally.B
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A wrasse or two?
Yes. Practical Fish too.
But I lost my Beautiful Fairy Wrasse last year (once in overflow...and put back) and then gone forever (even with a Net on top).

Was hoping I'd find his Skelton during this Sump room Tear apart.
Not found yet.

Before the Fairy, I had a Black Capped Basslet. He jump but I found him on floor. He was great!!! And a possible Candidate.

But I'll make a better net this time, and EuroTrim might help too.

ANY OTHER (Fish) SUGGESTIONs from ANYONE? (Good Experiences)

I might get another LawnMover Blenny. I like him in my other tank. Not Pretty but Goofy and fun.


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Old Today, 01:38 AM   #189
Rakie
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Most blenny are kinda goofy and fun. If you want something smaller try a tail-spot blenny.

As for nets, I would say if it's a big concern get a BRS net that is 1/8" instead of 1/4" for added security. Doesn't do much to the lighting really, and might make you feel safer with livestock.

I've only had one jumper, it was a midnight clown that my Bangaii terrorized out of the tank. I have an up and over return line, and that 1/2" gap was enough for him to jump. Such a bummer, he was a cool fish, thought he was a wrasse and liked to hang out with them.

Most people with a nice thick euro edge don't have much to worry about when it comes to fish jumping though, I'm not entirely sure why other than the obvious barrier.. Maybe most fish escape by jumping nearly straight up against the glass? Otherwise, I have no idea how a simple 2" lip an be so outrageously effective -- But it is.



As for Fish!
- Yellow Assessors are awesome, very chill basslet, get along in groups, mine is ALWAYS out.
- Sunburst Anthias are also pretty relaxed, again, mine is ALWAYS out.
- Shoal of Anthias, movement and beauty.
- Neon Goby is great, they will clean your fish They also have a HUGE personality.
- Various 2" goby; Tangaroa, Yasha Hase, Green Barred, etc etc. They all get along great, they all have personality, and they're mini CUC who eat missed food.
- Fairy Wrasse -- It's always good to have a few of these. One may be a jerk, two will always be on one another, 4-5 will be a small hierarchy. They seem to chill when there's more than just one or two vying for 'top dog'.
- Flasher Wrasse -- Similar to Fairy Wrasse, but in my experience more willing to show whose boss. Fairy wrasse get larger and know they're the boss, these little guys feel the need to prove it. Mostly flashing and display, not much actual biting.
- Leopard Wrasse -- The most valuable CUC member and a great personality. Cleared me of Flatworms (Aceol or w/e kind) in a week.
- Sharks -- Need I say more?


I'm really enjoying watching your progress Wally. Can't wait to see which sharks you pick


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