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Old 01/07/2016, 11:03 AM   #2051
pfan151
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Quote:
Originally Posted by row12 View Post
Hello all! I have a 300 gallon SPS DT with the following fish: Emperor Angel, Purple Tang, WhiteTail Bristletooth Tang, Labouti, Lineatus, Solarensis, Orange Back, Red Velvet, Pintail Pair, Rhomboid Pair, 9 Bimac Anthias, Blue Star Leopard, Yellow Coris, and Christmas Wrasse. I just recently picked up an Achillies tang to complete my fish list and he is in an acclimation box in my DT. My DT has had ich for the past yr and I have been debating on going fallow to clear it up especially prior to releasing the Achillies. I have a 300 gallon rubbermaid that I was going to use to house the fish while my DT is fallow, but I have a few questions before I begin setting it up.

I want to perform TTM on the fish prior to housing in my rubbermaid container. My plan is as follows:

1. Take water from my DT after my next water change
2. Setup a canister filter (Aquatop 500 w/ UV light), heater, and powerheads
3. Seed it with filter floss from the DT
4. Treat the rubbermaid setup with copper to eradicate any potential ich on the filter floss and DT water.
5. Begin TTM on fish in separate containers
6. Remove copper medication from rubbermaid setup with carbon and water change
7. Transfer fish to Rubbermaid setup while DT remains fallow

Will copper kill any beneficial biological bacteria?
Should I add any biological bacteria to the rubbermaid setup?
Any other recommendations with my above process?

Thanks for your help!
I think you are making it way more work than it needs to be. I'd just put them all in the Rubbermaid and dose the copper. Then after 4 weeks remove the copper and leave them in the Rubbermaid for another six weeks. I think the TTM can work but I wouldn't be as confident that 100% of the parasite is gone. With copper and leaving the tank fallow you know you won't have to deal with ick again.

After this current outbreak I have decided to treat every fish I buy with copper for 4 weeks prior to being added to the display tank. Everything will be treated whether they show visible signs of ick or not.


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Old 02/11/2016, 03:24 PM   #2052
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Doesn't the cycling process differ depending on the size of the quarantine tank and the number/size of the fish being added?

I'm adding two clowns, 4 anthias and a flame angel to a 29 gallon and am worried about ammonia spikes.

It would be great if there was some rule of thumb regarding ammonia dosing to replicate the bioload of a fish prior to putting them in the QT tank.


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Old 02/12/2016, 01:39 PM   #2053
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Just need re-assurance I'm doing it right. I've setup a permanent QT for everything that will go in the DT (fish, corals & inverts). The QT's cycle was started mid december and finished at the end of January.

Specs:
75w Ehiem heater
Blau 20 gallon rimless
Fluval LED light as life support for corals
Tunze reefpack 250 (includes a 9004 doc skimmer + media filter)
Tunze turbelle powerhead
Tunze nano osmolator (Overkill but will be practical when I do corals)
Fluval filter beads




I've recently added PVC parts as hiding places and added six juvenile yellow chromis and three juvenile cardinals ( day 16 today).



So now for the Q's:
-My Quarantine plan is as follows. Fish for 72 days, inverts (CUC) and corals for 48, fish for 72 days, coral and inverts 48 days and so on and so forth. Is there anything wrong with this scheduling?
-If I use Copper to treat for ich, can I clean the equipment and use new filter beads that were cycled in the DT without problem for the inverts and the corals in subsequent quarantines?
-How do I go about doing treatments for the corals. Add the dip in the QT with the inverts or take the corals out one by one for the dips? Also what dips are suggested (I'm in Canada, so not all products are available)

Might be more but I'm pulling blanks on questions.

Thanks,

-Rog

Edit: Another Q. What happens if I get to the end of the 72 days with no apparent signs of problem and no treatments given? I just transfer the fish to the DT?


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Last edited by Rognin; 02/12/2016 at 01:51 PM.
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Old 02/12/2016, 02:03 PM   #2054
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Originally Posted by Rognin View Post
So now for the Q's:
-My Quarantine plan is as follows. Fish for 72 days, inverts (CUC) and corals for 48, fish for 72 days, coral and inverts 48 days and so on and so forth. Is there anything wrong with this scheduling?
-If I use Copper to treat for ich, can I clean the equipment and use new filter beads that were cycled in the DT without problem for the inverts and the corals in subsequent quarantines?
-How do I go about doing treatments for the corals. Add the dip in the QT with the inverts or take the corals out one by one for the dips? Also what dips are suggested (I'm in Canada, so not all products are available)


Edit: Another Q. What happens if I get to the end of the 72 days with no apparent signs of problem and no treatments given? I just transfer the fish to the DT?
This seems confusing:
"My Quarantine plan is as follows. Fish for 72 days, inverts (CUC) and corals for 48, fish for 72 days, coral and inverts 48 days and so on and so forth. Is there anything wrong with this scheduling?"

Simplify it down to this:
Non-Fish (includes but not limited to CUC, coral and inverts) = 72 days isolated from fish
Fish = TTM + 4 weeks observation, or copper for 4 weeks + 4 weeks observation

Unless I am missing something here...


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Old 02/12/2016, 02:30 PM   #2055
Rognin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spar View Post
This seems confusing:
"My Quarantine plan is as follows. Fish for 72 days, inverts (CUC) and corals for 48, fish for 72 days, coral and inverts 48 days and so on and so forth. Is there anything wrong with this scheduling?"

Simplify it down to this:
Non-Fish (includes but not limited to CUC, coral and inverts) = 72 days isolated from fish
Fish = TTM + 4 weeks observation, or copper for 4 weeks + 4 weeks observation

Unless I am missing something here...

I'll elaborate.

Fish:
72 days of observation of fish in Qt. I'm not doing any prophylactic treatments unless I get signs of a problem, in which case I treat and after the 4 weeks of treatment, I restart the 72 day counter of observation.

Corals and inverts:
Once the fish have been transferred to the DT I start with the CUC and some corals for a 48 day period.

Also, why 72 days for corals and inverts? Is it not just 4 weeks?


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Old 02/12/2016, 06:04 PM   #2056
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72 days observation just seems like an odd number... It isn't a bad number, it just doesn't have any specific meaning behind it. You may be confusing this with the 72 days you must leave your DT or non-fish fallow to ensure that ich cysts die out.


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Old 02/26/2016, 12:29 AM   #2057
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Moving Fish from QT to DT

I hear everyone saying don't get copper into the DT tank, don't use same net to transfer, etc.. This may be a stupid question but how do I transfer the fish without this happening to a certain extent other than rinsing them off first, does that mean another tank with just tank water from my DT to put them in first after treatment then into DT?


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Old 02/26/2016, 12:38 AM   #2058
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I hear everyone saying don't get copper into the DT tank, don't use same net to transfer, etc.. This may be a stupid question but how do I transfer the fish without this happening to a certain extent other than rinsing them off first, does that mean another tank with just tank water from my DT to put them in first after treatment then into DT?

You would remove the copper before transferring the fish to the DT. If your net was used during the copper treatment I'd get a new net for the transfer.


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Old 02/26/2016, 02:54 AM   #2059
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So no worries then for only trace amounts, or is there something else that removes the copper, or is it just the time that passes and a water change or two in the QT tank that does it?


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Old 02/26/2016, 09:01 AM   #2060
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I was told years ago when transferring from you QT w/copper use the QT net and transfer to container with DT water and remove to DT with your DT net. I have at times just scooped with my QT net and walked over and put the fish in my DT. ( its across the room).....lol


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Old 02/26/2016, 09:29 AM   #2061
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rognin View Post
I'll elaborate.

Fish:
72 days of observation of fish in Qt. I'm not doing any prophylactic treatments unless I get signs of a problem, in which case I treat and after the 4 weeks of treatment, I restart the 72 day counter of observation.

Corals and inverts:
Once the fish have been transferred to the DT I start with the CUC and some corals for a 48 day period.

Also, why 72 days for corals and inverts? Is it not just 4 weeks?


I'd still do TTM before any fish goes into the display if your not planning to use copper. If you are going to go through all the time of a 72 day QT you might as well do TTM just to guarantee there is no chance of Ich getting into the tank.


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Old 02/26/2016, 08:54 PM   #2062
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ich Question

I treated several fish ( one by one) that were in an ich infested tank with TTM + prazipro
Then I placed them in an observation tank (OT)
the last one I treated was a Hippo tang and when I moved it to the OT a kole eye tang that was in the OT started attacking him, I moved the pvc fittings and placed another pvc elbow so prevent fights. After 2 days I noticed some round stains in the skin of the hippo tang like it was the mouth of the kole eye so I placed a plastic grill to separate the OT in two and prevent any more attacks. The marks in the skin of Hippo are smaller now here is a photo

all other fish look fine and I do not need the obvious signs of ich in the Hippo, like scratching, the salt grains nor heavy breathing

can someone help me confirm it is not ich??
thanks
hippo tang 2.jpg


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Old 04/11/2016, 11:52 PM   #2063
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Looking for a bit of advice. Qting two separate tanks, a 40 and 55gal. They are being set up tomorrow, one is for CUC and corals, the other is awaiting fish to do TTM first. Fish, coral, and CUC will be here friday. Could I seed the tank for coral n CUC with a piece of live rock from lfs? Im guessing theh would have some kind of pest but since Im qting anyways for 72 days would the adding live rock help avoid fluctuations in parameters? Since it is a coral qt that would be unfortunate. For the fish qt, I plan to use sponge filters to help. Really just trying to figure out how not to kill corals without biological filter. My DT is cycling so it would be pointless to use anything from there to gain biological filtration, as it is trying to do that itself. Any ideas?


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Old 04/12/2016, 11:13 PM   #2064
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What I would do is have a fully cycle quarantine tank for corals and inverts. Let them sit fishless for 72 days then transfer to display tank. I wouldn't start a quarantine tank without it being fully cycle. You can get away with for fish since its Ttm but for corals I would cycle the tank first. Take your time is a long ways to the finish line. I started my new tank build in January and right now all I have in it is rocks and fish. I am going stock up all my fish I wanted them slowly start quarantining corals. Nothing good comes from rushing off shortcuts. Just my opinion.


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Old 04/13/2016, 01:01 AM   #2065
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Yes you are correct on all fronts. Patience... Gotta read up on that as well! Overall, I am going to have to go with what Ive got. Corals are on the way, I added them to my shopping cart to get free shipping for the first two fish for qt. Didnt need anything else, they are zoanthids only though so they can tolerate some poor water quality. Thanks for the help.


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Old 04/28/2016, 01:26 AM   #2066
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I've got an established 130 gallon reef but I'm planning on buying 6-10 fish over the next several months so I'm setting up a 20L quarantine tank and have a couple questions:

1) I bought a pump driven foam filter and placed it in my sump today. How long does it need to be in there before I can start the quarantine tank with it?

2) I noticed that I have my display tank's return pump sitting on a 5"x5" foam pad. Will this foam pad have a sufficient amount of bacteria on it to start my quarantine tank without a cycle? Basically I want to see if I can start the quarantine tank without having to wait for the sponge filter to finish seeding.

3) I'm reading a lot of people medicate the fish they quarantine whether or not they notice signs of disease. Others don't. Is it okay to simply observe the new fish in the QT for say 4 weeks and add it to the display if there has been no sickness?

4) If the fish is sick I medicate with Copper or Prazipro for a couple of weeks. If I don't have a second QT tank, is it okay to simply reduce the levels of copper with carbon and water changes and keep the fish in the same tank QT for another 4 weeks before moving to the display? One QT tank is the best I can do.


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Old 04/28/2016, 07:30 AM   #2067
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Originally Posted by ReefTron5000 View Post
I've got an established 130 gallon reef but I'm planning on buying 6-10 fish over the next several months so I'm setting up a 20L quarantine tank and have a couple questions:

1) I bought a pump driven foam filter and placed it in my sump today. How long does it need to be in there before I can start the quarantine tank with it?

2) I noticed that I have my display tank's return pump sitting on a 5"x5" foam pad. Will this foam pad have a sufficient amount of bacteria on it to start my quarantine tank without a cycle? Basically I want to see if I can start the quarantine tank without having to wait for the sponge filter to finish seeding.

3) I'm reading a lot of people medicate the fish they quarantine whether or not they notice signs of disease. Others don't. Is it okay to simply observe the new fish in the QT for say 4 weeks and add it to the display if there has been no sickness?

4) If the fish is sick I medicate with Copper or Prazipro for a couple of weeks. If I don't have a second QT tank, is it okay to simply reduce the levels of copper with carbon and water changes and keep the fish in the same tank QT for another 4 weeks before moving to the display? One QT tank is the best I can do.
4 weeks isn't enough. Easiest, and safest thing to do to keep your display clean is, formalin bath on arrival, TTM with prazi on the 1st and 3rd transfer, observe in Qt for 4 weeks or so.


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Old 04/28/2016, 03:02 PM   #2068
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Hello everyone. Maybe this has been answered, maybe not. In general it concerns filter floss in quarantine. I've had some little clowns in quarantine and I've had filter floss in the HOB to maintain a bio filter and keep ammonia in check. They have seemed healthy and so I haven't used any medications of any kind. Yesterday I received 3 fish from an online vendor, and two of them are in pretty bad shape. I actually have two qt tanks, so I put the two carnivores in one qt, and I added the wrasse to the qt with the clowns in it.

I guess I'm getting ahead of myself. Two Extreme Picasso Clowns in quarantine already. 20g tank. One larger HOB filter with filter floss in it. One small powerhead. One 75W heater. A 2" piece of 45 degree PVC elbow.

Other qt has been fallow until yesterday. Pretty much identical setup as the first qt.

The three first I received yesterday were a Marine Betta, a Sargassum Angler, and a Blue Sided Fairy Wrasse.

I put the Betta and the Angler in the fallow tank, separated by eggcrate. I put the Wrasse in the tank with the clowns. I attempted to separate the clowns from the wrasse with eggcrate, but all of the fish are too small for that to work, lol.

The angler appears in perfect health. It's already eaten feeder shrimp and fish live, and feeder shrimp from a feeding stick.

The wrasse is cowering in the bottom corner of the qt, and won't move unless I prompt it to move somehow.

The Betta is doing even worse. It's basically staying in a head down vertical position. It's fins are pulled in, it has a string of white lumpy poo stuck to it's anus, and it has a section along one flank where it's missing scales.

I think most of the problem is ammonia poisoning. The fish were delivered 32 hours late (damn you fedex) and so obviously were in transit a lot longer than they should've been. I drip acclimated them over 2 hours, with methylene blue and stress coat in the water.

Anyway, because of the poo, the fins, and the scales, I'm concerned about internal and external parasites. I just placed a large order for a medicine cabinet stockpile, but it hasn't arrived yet, so I ran to the store and picked up some API General Cure. I dosed both tanks. Am I able to run filter floss in those HOB's, or do i need to remove it and use Prime/WC's to control ammonia?

thank you!


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Old 04/28/2016, 03:56 PM   #2069
pfan151
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Hello everyone. Maybe this has been answered, maybe not. In general it concerns filter floss in quarantine. I've had some little clowns in quarantine and I've had filter floss in the HOB to maintain a bio filter and keep ammonia in check. They have seemed healthy and so I haven't used any medications of any kind. Yesterday I received 3 fish from an online vendor, and two of them are in pretty bad shape. I actually have two qt tanks, so I put the two carnivores in one qt, and I added the wrasse to the qt with the clowns in it.

I guess I'm getting ahead of myself. Two Extreme Picasso Clowns in quarantine already. 20g tank. One larger HOB filter with filter floss in it. One small powerhead. One 75W heater. A 2" piece of 45 degree PVC elbow.

Other qt has been fallow until yesterday. Pretty much identical setup as the first qt.

The three first I received yesterday were a Marine Betta, a Sargassum Angler, and a Blue Sided Fairy Wrasse.

I put the Betta and the Angler in the fallow tank, separated by eggcrate. I put the Wrasse in the tank with the clowns. I attempted to separate the clowns from the wrasse with eggcrate, but all of the fish are too small for that to work, lol.

The angler appears in perfect health. It's already eaten feeder shrimp and fish live, and feeder shrimp from a feeding stick.

The wrasse is cowering in the bottom corner of the qt, and won't move unless I prompt it to move somehow.

The Betta is doing even worse. It's basically staying in a head down vertical position. It's fins are pulled in, it has a string of white lumpy poo stuck to it's anus, and it has a section along one flank where it's missing scales.

I think most of the problem is ammonia poisoning. The fish were delivered 32 hours late (damn you fedex) and so obviously were in transit a lot longer than they should've been. I drip acclimated them over 2 hours, with methylene blue and stress coat in the water.

Anyway, because of the poo, the fins, and the scales, I'm concerned about internal and external parasites. I just placed a large order for a medicine cabinet stockpile, but it hasn't arrived yet, so I ran to the store and picked up some API General Cure. I dosed both tanks. Am I able to run filter floss in those HOB's, or do i need to remove it and use Prime/WC's to control ammonia?

thank you!
Pretty big mistake to add the wrasse that you said was in bad shape to the tank with your clowns. best thing to do for now is to keep the water parameters perfect and hope they recover from the shipping. Keep up with waterchanges to keep ammonia and nitrate away.


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Old 04/28/2016, 04:18 PM   #2070
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No where else for him to go. The clowns are still too small for the dt, and the wrasse is too small not to end up in the menu in the carnivore qt.

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Old 04/28/2016, 04:25 PM   #2071
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No where else for him to go. The clowns are still too small for the dt, and the wrasse is too small not to end up in the menu in the carnivore qt.

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But now you are putting the clowns at risk.


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Old 04/28/2016, 04:28 PM   #2072
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Yes, I get that. Do you have a solution?


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Old 04/28/2016, 04:33 PM   #2073
pfan151
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Just start the qt time over for the clowns and hope you get lucky I guess. When your meds come I'd do a formalin bath, prazi pro treatment and TTM to make sure they don't have Ich.


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Old 04/28/2016, 04:35 PM   #2074
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Oh, their quarantine is far from over, lol. They need a lot more size before they can be competitive in the dt.

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Old 05/30/2016, 01:03 AM   #2075
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So much good info in this post. Thank you! I am just getting back into the hobby after 14 years away. I never had a qt tank, so this is all new to me!


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