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Old 10/15/2018, 02:18 PM   #1
dmsprague
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Pump for basement sump for 2 DT

Hello all, just seeking some advise from those of you with more experience and knowledge than myself. I just scored a 2 year old marine land 125 gallon tank (72x18x22)and stand for $42.00 Yipee. I am going to divide it for a sump to provided filtration for my 150 gallon and 180 gallon tanks that are on my first floor. The sump will be in the basement so I can stop crawling around on my knees and making a mess on the living floor. Not to mention the salt mixing station in the dining room. Yes I have a very understanding spouse! The sump will be placed almost dead center between both tanks so I'm estimating my supply and return plumbing at 15'-20' ft max for each tank. I will only have one return line to each tank. The 180 is drilled and has two 1.5" drains and a single 1" return. The 150 is not drilled and has a HOB overflow with two 1.5" drain one being a backup so really only one flowing with a 1" return line. The 180 is fowlr with about 30 bubble tip nems. The 150 is fish live rock nems and some softies and LPS. No SPS so I don't need a ton of flow as I have power heads for the majority of tank flow. The sump is for socks and equipment such as skimmer reactor etc. and to get everything in one location. My question is about a return pump. My plan is for a single pump teed off with valves on the return lines and drain lines for fine tuning and to isolate each system if needed for maintenance etc. I'm wondering if a reeflo Hammerhead / Barracuda Hybrid would be sufficient for a return pump. I don't want to break the bank but I also do not want to skimp and end up having to buy another pump because the first one isn't up to the task. Also if anyone has any suggestion on how to divide the 125 gallon sump I'm all ears I've been in the hobby for about 3 years and each tank build gets a little better but I really want to do this right the first time. Thanks


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Old 10/15/2018, 03:27 PM   #2
Jboone82590
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So you're wanting to run both tanks on the same dump or split the new 125 up to make 2 sumps? One for each tank?

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Old 10/15/2018, 05:25 PM   #3
dmsprague
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Just one sump for both tanks. Like to have a fuge, skimmer compartment and maybe a section a reactor and if enough room maybe a place for frag grow out or to place a fish that needs to be removed. Currently I'm running a 30 gal sump under the 150 and a 40 gallon under the 180 so 125 should be great for both. Everything has been well I'm just tired of two of everything and having to crawl around on my old knees.


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Old 10/15/2018, 05:39 PM   #4
Jason9488
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I would not combine both tanks to one sump. Pick a tank


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Old 10/15/2018, 05:57 PM   #5
Jboone82590
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmsprague View Post
Just one sump for both tanks. Like to have a fuge, skimmer compartment and maybe a section a reactor and if enough room maybe a place for frag grow out or to place a fish that needs to be removed. Currently I'm running a 30 gal sump under the 150 and a 40 gallon under the 180 so 125 should be great for both. Everything has been well I'm just tired of two of everything and having to crawl around on my old knees.
I would run them together also.
I have 3 tanks ran on the same system and i love it.
One water change for 3 tanks and dosing once for 3 tanks.
One is SPS one is zoas and one is soft coral.

Just make sure you have not done copper on the FOWLER tank or anything like that.

If you have the room put all the sump together for a nice big dump. Maybe make the 40 a fuge for them and then the other one a skimmer chamber then have the 125 be the return and reactors and stuff.

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Old 10/15/2018, 06:52 PM   #6
Vinny Kreyling
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Build a bench for the tank that will help with head pressure & keep the back in shape.


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Old 10/15/2018, 06:53 PM   #7
Jboone82590
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Yeah that's a good idea.
Get it a few feet off the ground and easier to take care of

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Old 10/15/2018, 09:00 PM   #8
dmsprague
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I definitely want a single sump. I have the marineland stand with the 125 so it will be elevated a couple of feet so I can work standing up. I'm just trying to simplify things. One skimmer one reactor one water change etc. That and crawling around working on the sumps under the tanks is taking its toll on my knees which are not great to begin with. And Momma would love to get all the fish stuff out of the living room and dining area. I'm willing to take the risk of combined systems. I don't have huge money invested in SPS and while I do have some cool fish that I have raised from very small sizes I am to the point of being over stocked so not really planning on new additions and I do QT for a minimum of 8 weeks with a new addition. No copper has been run in the fowlr.
So what about this pump.https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/reefl...0-4590gph.html Will it be enough for 2 returns? Thanks for all the input


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Old 10/16/2018, 07:48 AM   #9
pecan2phat
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That pump is sufficient as long as you are sure that your head pressure is 20' or less.
At 20' it's 3000 gph but at 24' it drops all the way down to 600 gph according to Reeflo.
You have to calculate the entire length of piping and all the 90 degree bends. If you think that it's borderline, they make pressure pumps like the Suntail 4000.


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Old 10/16/2018, 01:37 PM   #10
dmsprague
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pecan2phat View Post
That pump is sufficient as long as you are sure that your head pressure is 20' or less.
At 20' it's 3000 gph but at 24' it drops all the way down to 600 gph according to Reeflo.
You have to calculate the entire length of piping and all the 90 degree bends. If you think that it's borderline, they make pressure pumps like the Suntail 4000.
Thanks! I ended up asking BRS and that is the exact pump they recommend since my head pressure is going to be about 25'. I'm going to try reduce that a bit by running spaflex at an angle rather than 90s


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Old 10/16/2018, 02:46 PM   #11
hkgar
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I have a basement sump for my 180 DT. I made a stand from cinder (cement) blocks, 3 poillars to suuport a 2x frame resting on them.

My head pressure is high with an 10 ft lift and 15 horizontal. Use 45's rather than 90's for your turns.

I would reccomennd Iwaki pumps. I have the Iwaki 100 and highly recommend it. With my head pressure I am getting a flow of about 650 gph


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180 gallon, 40 gallon sump, 8 ATI T5's, MTC MVX 36 Skimmer, Apex controller Reef Octopus CaRx

Current Tank Info: 2 Barred Rabbitfish, Red Head, Yellow/Purple, Hoevans, Possum, 2 Leopard Wrasses, Kole, Purple & Atlantic Blue Tangs, Matted Filefish, 2 Percula Clown, 4 PJ Cardinals, Swallowtail Angel
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Old 10/16/2018, 04:59 PM   #12
dmsprague
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I looked at iwaki but I have about 24ft head pressure because it will be supplying two tanks and I didn't see one strong enough.


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Old 10/20/2018, 01:51 AM   #13
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You will need to ensure that if your HOB overflow fails that it doesn't flood the house.

The way you do this is put an ATO system on the displays in such a way that during normal operation they are active and if the drain fails as the tanks fill it triggers the ATO to shut down the return pump before spilling over onto the floor. I strongly suggest this if you want to keep your wife understanding. This has saved many people from a disaster. I recommend a setup from autotopoff.com. Any on this page are suitable. http://autotopoff.com/Longwire/index.html

Go with that Reeflo pump you link. It is what I use as well for my 600gal though I don't have quite the head pressure you do.

Each tank will need it's own drain, you really want each tank to have a full siphon style drain (herbie or bean) At that height allowing air into the drain will make for a loud toilet flush as well as a ton of foam and bubbles as the drains empty into the sump. Run a single return and split it as close to the tanks as you can. Minimum 1.5" plumbing for the return but 2" would be best.

Forget shutting one system down during maintenance. Just shut them both down, the tanks will be fine with just powerheads during that time. Make sure your sump is large enough to handle the drain water when the return pump is off.

Keep a spare seal kit handy. These pumps rely on a spinning ceramic seal to keep water from leaking, it is their one downside. However, they often last many years without any issue. That said, when it does start to leak, they often go quickly, and they are very easy to replace. Go with the US Seal part# PS-1905. It is a dual silicon carbide seal which is much stronger than the factory one that comes with the pump. Keep this in stock!
https://hottubwarehouse.com/products...xoClawQAvD_BwE


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Old 10/20/2018, 08:59 AM   #14
dmsprague
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Thanks tkeracer619 I had not even thought of that. My current sumps are small enough that I can run the return compartment dry with no overflow of the DT and can stop the pump and the sump will not overflow. The new set up will have much more water so I can see that could be a problem if a drain fails. Would it be a problem running 1.5" - 2" with it being restricted where it enters the tank. The drilled tank I'm pretty sure is 1" (at work right now) the non drilled is not an issue as the return will go over the top into the tank. I do have an understanding wife. I have had enough floods due to ignorance that I now jump almost every time I hear water running.



Last edited by dmsprague; 10/20/2018 at 09:06 AM.
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Old 10/20/2018, 11:03 AM   #15
rezaktp
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I would even recommend having a spare pump. I have my basement sump set up with true-union ball valves so that I can change out a pump in about 10 minutes.


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Current Tank Info: 100g. FOWLR w/6-T5's on Icecaps, & 180g. reef w/8-80w t-5's, 70g. Rubbermaid basement sump w/10g. fuge, APEX, Aerofoamer 630 Skimmer, 1/3hp Aqualogic chiller, 57w Aqua Ultraviolet UV, BRS 2-part w/2-Drews Dosers, Kalk top off, 2-MP40wES
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