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Old 12/24/2014, 10:50 PM   #176
Gangrene
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I just want to go on the record that I have had ich 3-4 times in my tank over the years. Usually, it is a disaster. I recently moved, in august, and after the move I stocked a few new fish... of course, after the purchase, I had another ich attack. Previously, I just let it run its course thinking there was no recourse, in a reef tank, and reading many posts about it.

This time however I used fishvet: No-Ich because I didn't want to watch a massacre, and what could it hurt if they were mostly going to die anyway. It's advertised as a reef safe ich treatment.

People can say whatever they want about stuff working or not working. However, here is my personal experience.

I used it and didn't lose a fish or invert... It's been 2-3 months since I stopped the treatment with no further signs of ich and the PJ cardinals that were prominently displaying the ich before are fine and ich free. I recommend it and would use it again if needed. The $30ish for the 32oz. bottle I paid was money well spent when considering the cost of the fish involved. I did use the whole bottle though in my 37 gallon tank over time following the directions. I hope this helps others and I'd love to hear if others can repeat the results I had.


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Old 02/18/2015, 08:00 AM   #177
tmz
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Effective treatments include : tank transfer, hypo salinity , and copper.; all are done in a hospital tank. There are no effective reef safe concoctions


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Current Tank Info: Tank of the Month , November 2011 : 600gal integrated system: 3 display tanks (120 g, 90g, 89g),several frag/grow out tanks, macroalgae refugia, cryptic zones. 40+ fish, seahorses, sps,lps,leathers, zoanthidae and non photosynthetic corals.
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Old 02/18/2015, 03:58 PM   #178
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Greetings, I have several questions, I have long used hyposalinity, but a few days ago after leaving the tank a friend 90 days without fish, and 60 days the fish in hypo salinity sg 1009, then 10 more days to raise the salinity 1025 , after that six month already on the main tank, a powder blue shows signs of ich, neither fish or rock did not introduce anything new to the main tank,, not understand because it has ich again
any suggestions
regards


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Old 02/19/2015, 08:01 AM   #179
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Hypo salinity is usually effective but not always. There are strains of ich that are able to tolerate lower sg and adapt to it.


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Current Tank Info: Tank of the Month , November 2011 : 600gal integrated system: 3 display tanks (120 g, 90g, 89g),several frag/grow out tanks, macroalgae refugia, cryptic zones. 40+ fish, seahorses, sps,lps,leathers, zoanthidae and non photosynthetic corals.
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Old 02/20/2015, 11:28 AM   #180
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Dealing with a little bit of ich in my tank. Doesn't seem too aggressive at this point. but all the corals were removed, and I'm going to be doing a hypo salinity treatment on the whole display.
Easy day


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Old 02/24/2015, 01:49 AM   #181
alyssa.nugent
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Ich

So I have one fish showing signs of ich in my 65g FOWLR tank. Im kicking myself and have seriously taught myself a few lessons 1) don't buy any fish that don't come from my LFS, 2) quarantine everything. But, hindsight is 20/20. The thing is, I don't have enough room to quarantine all the fish. I got a coral beauty angle, and its the only thing showing signs of ich. I didn't see anything on the fish at the store, or in the bag on up close exam, but low and behold, the second it got under my LEDs, the thing lit up like a disco ball. I'm wondering if I should try to treat the tank (pull all my rock out and keep it in a small 10 gallon tank and some buckets and hope for the best with the snails, 1 cleaner shrimp and crabs in the small tank) or should I wait it out and see what happens. All the other fish seem to be doing fine and Im wondering if they might be resilient enough to fight it off. I also have two black oscilaris clowns, a purple goby, a blenny, and a half black angle fish (don't worry, they each have their own side of the tank, were added right about the same time and leave each other alone). help.


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Old 02/24/2015, 10:18 AM   #182
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In both case note above. I'd remove all the fish and treat them in asseparate tank and leave the dispaly tank fishless for 72 days.

Hypo for a reef tank will kill other desireable inverts; not just corals; it will also supress the biofilter at least temporarily .


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Current Tank Info: Tank of the Month , November 2011 : 600gal integrated system: 3 display tanks (120 g, 90g, 89g),several frag/grow out tanks, macroalgae refugia, cryptic zones. 40+ fish, seahorses, sps,lps,leathers, zoanthidae and non photosynthetic corals.
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Old 03/24/2015, 03:56 PM   #183
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Uv for me it works well,there is a but 1000l system 4x55watt commercial bank, feed with 3000l flow and 10x flow to sump.


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Old 04/19/2015, 01:39 PM   #184
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What are your thoughts on chloroquin phosphate? (Spell check)
Is it an acceptable replacement for copper?
What's the easiest way to get it since it is technically a prescription eye medication?
Daniel.


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Old 04/19/2015, 07:57 PM   #185
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Chloroquine works quite well. Not cheap, but it's good. $45 for 25 grams, which will a go long ways for a hobbyist.


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Old 05/16/2015, 09:35 PM   #186
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Hi Bill,
So long story short. 225 Dt with 55 gallon sump newly setup, 5 month. Combined fish from several tanks. None showed any signs of ICH. Newest fish in systems 1 year.

Placed all fish in new system, now several showing signs of ICH

So I want to treat with Chloroquine phos . how much and for how long would you recommend. I have done lots of reading but am getting a few different #,s

Thank you for your time. I will be ordering from your link above.

Regards Daniel


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Old 05/17/2015, 09:18 AM   #187
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Hi Daniel,

I've always had good results with Chloroquine dosed at 10mg/L of water volume. Keep in mind, it is lethal to inverts and in some cases interferes with the biological filter, so keep an eye on ammonia levels.


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Old 05/17/2015, 09:21 AM   #188
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How long should I treat for, and then how long before I can replace my snails. Will I need to run Carbon Afterwards to remove Chloroquine. also, how long do I need to treat for?

Thank you


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Last edited by Daniel62; 05/17/2015 at 09:43 AM.
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Old 05/17/2015, 10:45 AM   #189
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Usually one dose maintained for 21 days is sufficient. A second course can be administered if needed. If you need to do any water changes during the treatment period, simply dose the replacement water to the correct level. Afterwards, a good load of fresh carbon will remove the CP.


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Old 05/17/2015, 12:20 PM   #190
Daniel62
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thank you


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Old 05/17/2015, 10:09 PM   #191
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Will someone please check my math for CP dosing.

250 gallon system = 946.352946 liters dosed at 10mg per liter, that should equal 9.46 grams of CP
Am I correct?
Thanks


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Old 05/19/2015, 11:52 AM   #192
billsreef
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daniel62 View Post
Will someone please check my math for CP dosing.

250 gallon system = 946.352946 liters dosed at 10mg per liter, that should equal 9.46 grams of CP
Am I correct?
Thanks
That would be correct. The real question, does your system actually hold 250 gallons of water, after subtracting for things like rocks etc. ?


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Old 05/19/2015, 05:04 PM   #193
Daniel62
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The tank is 225 and the sump is 55 gallons close to half full, very little rock work, but I will look at it more closely and see how much of the rock would fill up the sump and subtract that amount. Thanks for the tip.


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Old 05/29/2015, 10:11 PM   #194
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Remember you have to go by interior dimensions on your tank. Glass thickness as well as actual water height will reduce your volume by quite a lot.
Daniel.


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Old 06/30/2015, 07:30 PM   #195
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What I'm going to say is against the grain. The few times in 15 years I've had fish with ich I stopped using flake food and switched to frozen food that I combine with amino acids and vitamins. I also added some carbon and did water changes. The idea was to improve water quality while improving the health of the fish. My ich breakouts always corresponded with overfeeding (with processed food) or adding new fish too quickly, e.g. not allowing my ammonia cycle to keep up with the new load. My fish always recovered and I remained without issue for several years.

Why no processed food? I've found that the carbohydrate rich "meals" in flake or pelletized food tended to be harder on my water quality. The frozen stuff tends to be more natural and breaks down cleaner. I can't prove this - just anecdotal observations on my part.


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Old 07/19/2015, 11:03 AM   #196
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The only thing that worked for me was letting the tank go fallow. Had 4 fish die off and had tried 'ich attack' which seemed to do nothing whatsoever.


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Old 08/20/2015, 06:11 AM   #197
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Always had luck with soaking food in garlic. Had a tang get ick and after the garlic treatment for a couple weeks it never came back. Just my two cents


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Old 08/20/2015, 08:20 AM   #198
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A couple of things:

Garlic is not effective in eradicating ich.

Nutrition is important for fish health but ich attacks healthy fish as well as sick fish. Many flake foods have high protein content and offer variety in the diet along with frozen or live foods.


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Current Tank Info: Tank of the Month , November 2011 : 600gal integrated system: 3 display tanks (120 g, 90g, 89g),several frag/grow out tanks, macroalgae refugia, cryptic zones. 40+ fish, seahorses, sps,lps,leathers, zoanthidae and non photosynthetic corals.

Last edited by tmz; 08/20/2015 at 08:31 AM.
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Old 08/20/2015, 01:34 PM   #199
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Is it possible that copper can have no effect on ich? I have had a hippo tang in copper for 3 1/2 weeks now at .5 to .6 with cupramine. I have the seachem test kit. About every 7 days it breaks out with ich really bad and have to do a fresh water dip. Its in a quarantine tank, bare bottom with pvc pipe. I test every day to make sure the copper maintains the .5 level.


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Old 08/20/2015, 05:05 PM   #200
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It would be very rare.


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