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Old 01/16/2014, 11:41 AM   #26
Haksar
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Guys what is int/ma/v on the pump and which option should I choose.Mine is running on int by default is this correct.


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Old 01/16/2014, 01:57 PM   #27
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The eheim on the korallin still needs to be used as a recirc pump to dissolve the co2 and keep it flowing. The feed pump is the peristaltic. The peristaltic is only a feed pump. It does not matter if it pulls or pushes the effluent, its the same. Pulling is just safer.

int = internal
ma = current controlled from external source
v = voltage control from external source

Unless you have a controller that you want to use to change speed and remote start/stop the unit then int is the correct setting.


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Old 01/17/2014, 03:58 PM   #28
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question on error "1"

Just received a 7523-60 masterflex and when I power it on I get an error "1"... I've looked at the manual online and it has error code troubleshooting for 2 and higher.... I haven't received my tubing yet so I don't have it in place in the pump head and maybe that is what is throwing it off? If anyone possibly knows what this is before I contact the seller in case I need to return. Thanks for any help.

Ty


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Old 01/17/2014, 04:04 PM   #29
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It doesn't need tubing to operate. Give cole-parmer a call and see if they have any tips for you. Error 1 is most likely internal which is not a good thing. It might have been damaged in shipping. Make sure the seller knows there is a problem asap. That is really a bummer.

Cole parmer has excellent customer support. They will gladly assist you on this one.


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Old 01/18/2014, 05:00 PM   #30
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cole-parmers are very nice, to bad they cost so much even used on ebay


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Old 01/19/2014, 06:20 PM   #31
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Tagging along for this one. Still dosing two part but someday soon I'll have to make the leap to a reactor.


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Old 01/19/2014, 06:32 PM   #32
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Quote:
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cole-parmers are very nice, to bad they cost so much even used on ebay
Worth every penny. Every setup I had in the past, I tried to use high end regulators and great reactors....I still had clogs and inconsistent effluent. Once I added a peristaltic pump, it was dead on reliable.

Mark (tkeracer619) had helped me source a digital drive unit, it was around $400 shipped IIRC...worth every penny. But that was truly the top of the line, if you can find a CP/Masterflex for 200-ish it is a great deal. Think about it...on a reactor setup you easily spend $100 for the tank, $200-300 for a quality regulator, maybe $400-$700 on a good reactor(that's not even factoring in controller, probes, media, etc). What is $200-$400(I have seen lower end masterflex pumps for $100-$150) more on a pump that will reliably control the effluent?


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Old 01/19/2014, 11:32 PM   #33
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out of curiosity, wouldn't a a doser pump work almost the same?


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Old 01/19/2014, 11:46 PM   #34
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out of curiosity, wouldn't a a doser pump work almost the same?
The cheap little doser pumps are not powerful enough, do not run slow enough, and most importantly are almost always not rated for continuous use. These are industrial pumps that can run and run and run and very slowly.


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Old 01/19/2014, 11:46 PM   #35
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Quote:
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out of curiosity, wouldn't a a doser pump work almost the same?
Dosing pumps are not made for continuous duty. For example, call BRS and ask them if you could use their dosing pumps for 24/7 operation, and they will tell you no. The Masterflex pumps are made for lab/industrial 24/7 type operation. You could use a dosing pump, then buy another after it breaks, then another, etc, if you see what I mean. Even buying used, you will buy a Masterflex once and only have to change out the dripset every 3 months or so.


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Old 01/20/2014, 02:24 AM   #36
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ah ok. thanks


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Old 01/20/2014, 07:41 AM   #37
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It's simpler to just get a calcium reactor that doesn't requite a feed pump / perestalsis pump. Less equipment and less headache.
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Old 01/20/2014, 08:02 AM   #38
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Like a Korallin 1502? That was the worst reactor I have ever owned, and that is not including the no feed pump required claim that did not work at all.


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Old 01/20/2014, 08:09 AM   #39
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Like a Korallin 1502? That was the worst reactor I have ever owned, and that is not including the no feed pump required claim that did not work at all.
No, like my Marine Technical Concepts Pro Cal.
Ken




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Old 01/20/2014, 09:36 AM   #40
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Like a Korallin 1502? That was the worst reactor I have ever owned, and that is not including the no feed pump required claim that did not work at all.
What claim do you mean?

This is from the operation instructions included with the reactor:

Use an optional small powerhead (such as the MaxiJet 400 or Rio 90) to actively feed water into the Kalkreakor. It serves three purposes:
?? It is a much more reliable water feeding method than siphoning or self-suction
?? It pressurizes the Kalkreaktor to enhance water / CO2 dissolution
?? It enables the Kalkreaktor to expel trapped air more easily




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Old 01/20/2014, 02:39 PM   #41
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I appreciate every ones input but if the posts are not on topic please leave them for other threads. We are discussing peristaltic pumps on calcium reactors.

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No, like my Marine Technical Concepts Pro Cal.
The effluent flow on that reactor is directly tied to the amount of media, the valve, and the conditions of the sponge. It does fluctuate and while on your setup it might not be enough to cause a head ache on many reactors it is.


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Old 01/20/2014, 02:57 PM   #42
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Anyway, I don´t think you can use the controller to turn off at pH 6.1 as a safety measure. That would imply that the solenoid valve controlled by the controller is always on (except in the rare case that the pH goes down lower than pH 6.1). Regular solenoid valves heat up when turned on. If it is always on I think it may get damaged in a few days or weeks.
I cannot be sure about that. I was under the impression that the solenoids used are low wattage and that they really don't get very hot. It is a good idea to make sure this is the case. I haven't used them since the AP reg came out.

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May be the AP electronic regulator itself can be programmed, by means of the external controller, to shut off when the safety pH is reached?
The AP regulator is continuous duty. I plug it into my controller but I don't think there was ever a problem with the reactor that made it shut down. It has run for years.


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Old 01/20/2014, 03:55 PM   #43
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Quote:
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What claim do you mean?

This is from the operation instructions included with the reactor:

Use an optional small powerhead (such as the MaxiJet 400 or Rio 90) to actively feed water into the Kalkreakor. It serves three purposes:
?? It is a much more reliable water feeding method than siphoning or self-suction
?? It pressurizes the Kalkreaktor to enhance water / CO2 dissolution
?? It enables the Kalkreaktor to expel trapped air more easily

This claim:

Quote:
•Self-suction water intake by the silent Eheim pump eliminates the use of a dedicated powerhead, gravity-fed or tee-off methods. It also serves for water recirculation.
made on all the selling websites, like:

http://www.marinedepot.com/calcium_r...eactor-ap.html

I am not sure if the included directions included with mine had what you quoted, but I do not recall them having that about reliability. That was a good 7 or so years ago I tried that reactor. I bought it heavily because it claimed not to need a feed pump, but baloney on that one.


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Old 01/22/2014, 11:06 AM   #44
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Mark,

Can't believe I missed this thread. A GIGANTIC thank you, this is most excellent! Your constant work to help many reefers is admirable.

I did manage to pick up a couple of pumps. I'll post pics and notes in the thread when I get a chance.

For everyone else - my biggest issue with my reef was controlling the effluent due to the valve clogging and making the alk fluctuate. It actually drove me to fall back to FOWLER at one point. These pumps ARE WORTH EVERY DIME. I set it up, turned it onto 50ml a minute, and set the AP regulator to 30 BPM. Bam, stable ALK/CA instantly, on first try, and haven't touched it since setting it up. Alk is 133 to 135 on Hanna refractometer every time.

Next project is to set the Ph controller to shut off at 6.2, and tweak the ellfuent and BPM rates to hold it at my target Ph, which presently is 6.8.

More later.

Thanks again Mark!


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Old 01/22/2014, 11:15 AM   #45
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Mark: a suggestion: Edit the thread title to include Cole Parmer.


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Old 01/22/2014, 01:59 PM   #46
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Thanks for the great thread! I have owned 3 calcium reactors in the past. I jsut set up a new 65 gallon tank. It's going to be mainly SPS with a few lps, zoos, etc. on the bottom.
I just picked up a new old stock Knop C on ebay for 69.00 and 11.00 shipping! I am interested in the Aquarium plant gauges and their special valve and timer for about 300.00. Is it really worth that kind of money????
Also, been reading up on the Cole Parmer pump you guys are using and referring to. I have a Compat medial delivery system. Same head set-up you guys are using. Do you think it would work. I am betting it will.
Thanks and Thanks for the great thread!


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Old 01/23/2014, 10:10 AM   #47
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Thanks for the great thread! I have owned 3 calcium reactors in the past. I jsut set up a new 65 gallon tank. It's going to be mainly SPS with a few lps, zoos, etc. on the bottom.
I just picked up a new old stock Knop C on ebay for 69.00 and 11.00 shipping! I am interested in the Aquarium plant gauges and their special valve and timer for about 300.00. Is it really worth that kind of money????
Also, been reading up on the Cole Parmer pump you guys are using and referring to. I have a Compat medial delivery system. Same head set-up you guys are using. Do you think it would work. I am betting it will.
Thanks and Thanks for the great thread!
I don't know that specific pump, but I bet it will work. One thing I learned from researching the Cole Parmer pumps is that nearly any of their L/S pumps will work very well. The 1-100 RPM models, the 10-600 models, the ones with brushes, the really old ones, the new ones that are small and about $532 retail like this one: http://www.coleparmer.com/Product/Ma...AC/EW-77200-20

That one I linked is what I would buy if I wanted a brand new pump but didn't want to pay $1800-$2200 for the big computerized L/S pump.

EDIT: Noticed one thing about that cheaper drive I linked: It has brushes, and they are NOT replaceable nor repairable. So if the motor dies, you have to buy a new one.


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Current Tank Info: 210 LeeMar starfire reef (7x2x2), 100 gal SoCalCreations sump, Aquacontroller 3, Geo 618 fed by Cole Parmer peri pump, ATB Large Cone , Aquatinics Constellation T5, 4 Vortecs with wireless controllers, Eheim 1262 return on a SeaSwirl

Last edited by CW from the OC; 01/23/2014 at 10:45 AM.
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Old 01/23/2014, 12:04 PM   #48
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Hi Mark,

To run the regulator continuously should I lower the controller ph to 6.1,will this exhaust the co2 tank quickly or cause low ph in the tank.I have my reactor set at 50ml/min and 60 BPM but would like to try your method of continuous regulator run.


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Old 01/23/2014, 12:35 PM   #49
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Thanks CW! Yea, I am thinking it's going to work too. I am going to give it a go. Once the units pressurized I am thinking I will get a steady effluent from the water exit on the reactor.
I sent some questions to aquariumplant.com about their super duper gauges and doser/timer. I asked if the unit was China made. The guy continually dodged the question!!!!! Not good. If he knew or thought China parts had a bad rap, he would not be dodging the questions. TOTALLY UNPROFESSIONAL IN MY OPINION!!!! He will not be getting my business. TOTAL MONEY GRUBBERS.....
I have set them up and ran them before without their unit, I can do it again.
Thanks for the help!


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Old 01/23/2014, 12:55 PM   #50
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Thanks CW! Yea, I am thinking it's going to work too. I am going to give it a go. Once the units pressurized I am thinking I will get a steady effluent from the water exit on the reactor.
I sent some questions to aquariumplant.com about their super duper gauges and doser/timer. I asked if the unit was China made. The guy continually dodged the question!!!!! Not good. If he knew or thought China parts had a bad rap, he would not be dodging the questions. TOTALLY UNPROFESSIONAL IN MY OPINION!!!! He will not be getting my business. TOTAL MONEY GRUBBERS.....
I have set them up and ran them before without their unit, I can do it again.
Thanks for the help!
I wouldn't get worked up about that at all. I recently got the AP Carbon Doser regulator. It IS worth it. It IS made in China, IIRC. It DOES work really well.

Others will chime in, but it is good stuff. Right in there with the CP Pumps as the best piece of reef gear I have.


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Current Tank Info: 210 LeeMar starfire reef (7x2x2), 100 gal SoCalCreations sump, Aquacontroller 3, Geo 618 fed by Cole Parmer peri pump, ATB Large Cone , Aquatinics Constellation T5, 4 Vortecs with wireless controllers, Eheim 1262 return on a SeaSwirl
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